Mesmerizing Pelling

Mighty Kanchanjunga

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By Avinash Savant

“It was a complete rough-rocky path, accompanying with Tea plantations on one side and valley facing Kanchanjunga on the other. It was very cold but fresh morning and the roads were challenging my riding skills at every steep, slope and turn”

Day 4, 25 December 2012

                My cell phone alarm ranged at 4 AM and immediately we got out of bed. After all the necessary morning courses we went down straight in the backyard garden. Found ourselves a nice spot to watch Kanchanjunga. It was 4:45 AM by then and it was dawning slowly. To be able to click the camera comfortably, I had removed hand gloves and was ready with Video as well as Photography camera. The extreme cold was making my hands go numb. It did not concern me much since by this time the magical Sun rays had started doing their wonders on Kanchanjunga’s crown. It literally felt like a ceremony where Sun was mounting a golden crown on Kanchanjunga’s tall head. We were the silent witnesses to the ritual. This was the first time in life we felt getting up so early was this much worth. The ceremony ended in an hour turning the Kanchanjunga completely golden.

                We came inside the canteen and warmed ourselves with a heavy breakfast. We discussed with the manager about our day’s plan and asked him for directions and must visit places. Though we had done our study about this trip, it is always better to ask the local. There is always a possibility to find something interesting out of the route from them. So we went to our room, took a quick shower and came down to warm the motorcycle up. Though it was bright sunny, but did not affect the cold much. We had planned to see Khecheopalri Lake which is a sacred lake for Buddhist and Hindus, few waterfalls on the way, Rock garden, Pemayangtse Monastery and Rabdentse Ruins. It was definitely a huge list for the day, but we thought of giving it a try. Obviously we did not want to miss any of these but wanted to do justice to each of them either. So we took a route to Khecheopalri Lake which is a beautiful mountainous road, having waterfalls and water streams accompanying us. The morning was fresh and beautiful. All the various aromas of wet soil, streams, green plants, snow capped mountains filled our souls.

                We reached Khecheopalri Lake, which is inside a forest. We parked our bike at the entrance and entered a narrow pathway built with stones and surrounded by lush greenery. The path goes deep into the jungle and ends at the Lake. We took a small pleasant walk through this dense forested path and reached the lake. The lake surroundings are kept clean and we could see small rock towers every here and there. I had read it somewhere, that in Tibetan tradition, people make small stone towers by pilling up stones on top of each other. It seems, making these towers in sacred places like this lake, would fulfill their wishes. There was a narrow wooden path-way made to reach the lake. This path-way had Tibetan rotating praying wheels on both sides. There are sacred scriptures and prayers written on these wheels and in Tibetan tradition if one makes these wheels rotate while passing by, is as good as saying the prayer himself. We went through this pathway till the lake and were watching the visitors go by. From here we could see entire lake and it’s surrounding mountains. The spot where we were standing was flooded with big fishes and they were swimming down there calmly. People were not allowed  to put anything into the lake as offering. It was nice to see nature in harmony. We spent a little time taking photographs and then walked back to the entrance. At the entrance we saw some shops selling Tibetan praying flags. We bought a few to keep this place in our memory and tied one flag string to our beloved motorcycle who was making sure that our journey is safe. It was still early in the morning and we had plenty of time in our hand. So we started our journey back to reach Rock garden. This rock garden has been built on the slope of hill alongside a river. One has to climb down some steps to reach the garden. There was nothing special about this garden, but the only plus point being there was no visitor there. As the name suggests, it is a stone made garden at the crystal clear river bank. We sat along the river bed to watch the calm river flow. The bluish green shades of river water made us calm and relaxed. The water was so clean, that we could actually see the river bottom stones. We just sat there for some time, listening to the river water sounds, as it was making it’s way through big stones. After capturing some calm moments, we came up at the entrance. While we were gearing up for our journey back, the guard at the gate asked us from where we were. He was in his mid 60’s and very friendly. He was staying with his daughters temporarily in one of the rooms kept for staff. He told us how his wife and family were staying in hill side village far from this place, but after his wife expired he had to move his daughters here with him. He gave us directions and wished us luck for our journey ahead with his wrinkled smiling face. The one I could never forget. While returning back from rock garden we saw two waterfalls pass by, but did not stop there.

                We had Pemayangtse Monastery and Rabdentse Ruins in our list and it was already 3:30 PM by the time we reached Pelling town. We went in one of the cozy hotel and ordered Chicken Thukpa, some local chicken gravy and rice. It was very cold but the steamy hot food saved us for some time. We finished our lunch by 4 PM and headed towards Rabdentse Ruins. We decided to skip the monastery, due to time constraints. Rabdentse Ruins was an ancient capital of Sikkim, which is being maintained by heritage and archeology departments. This is again a small trek of around 8 kms that takes us at top of the hill where the ancient capital ruins are situated. We started our climb and by the time we reached half way, it started getting dark. The site is also very lonely and not many people come here to visit. So we decided to see it early next morning while on our way to Gangtok. We climbed down with little irritation, since we had to miss two places as of now. We came back to Pelling town and went up to the helipad,  which is the topmost area in Pelling. There was a festival going on there. Lot of people had put up their stalls for selling momos, beers, wines, handicrafts, shawls, local snack and sweets counters, etc. We went in one of the momo stalls and ordered pork and veg momos along with Darjeeling green tea. The stall owner had a cute chubby kid running around the stall and he was very much trying to gain our attention. We played with this little red tomato who was continuously bouncing here and there. We gave him one chocolate and he was happy to have it. We finished our evening snack and said bye to the bouncing bubble boy. We took a walk to see what all stalls are there. From there we came back to the main town square and searched for a ATM. There was one SBI ATM there which was working at times but not for all. We thought of giving a try and luckily it worked for us. We retrieved the cash necessary to spend for next few days and then returned to our hotel. Our hotel owner was surprised to see us utilizing the complete day on travelling and motorcycle. As per him most people that come here take one day to rest from earlier day’s journey. There we were, two people roaming around in Sikkimi mountains till the day ends. He asked us about what all places we could cover. He said it was a good idea to visit Rabdentse Ruins in early morning. Then he guided us on our next day’s rout to Gangtok and took our dinner’s order. We went up to our room, got freshen up and returned down at dining hall. Had our favorite steamy Rohu fish curry and rice accompanied by an Omlet and hot tea. Since we had lots of things for next day, we packed all our things and kept the luggage ready. By 8:30 PM we crashed in to bed.

                We had Pemayangtse Monastery and Rabdentse Ruins in our list and it was already 3:30 PM by the time we reached Pelling town. We went in one of the cozy hotel and ordered Chicken Thukpa, some local chicken gravy and rice. It was very cold but the steamy hot food saved us for some time. We finished our lunch by 4 PM and headed towards Rabdentse Ruins. We decided to skip the monastery, due to time constraints. Rabdentse Ruins was an ancient capital of Sikkim, which is being maintained by heritage and archeology departments. This is again a small trek of around 8 kms that takes us at top of the hill where the ancient capital ruins are situated. We started our climb and by the time we reached half way, it started getting dark. The site is also very lonely and not many people come here to visit. So we decided to see it early next morning while on our way to Gangtok. We climbed down with little irritation, since we had to miss two places as of now. We came back to Pelling town and went up to the helipad,  which is the topmost area in Pelling. There was a festival going on there. Lot of people had put up their stalls for selling momos, beers, wines, handicrafts, shawls, local snack and sweets counters, etc. We went in one of the momo stalls and ordered pork and veg momos along with Darjeeling green tea. The stall owner had a cute chubby kid running around the stall and he was very much trying to gain our attention. We played with this little red tomato who was continuously bouncing here and there. We gave him one chocolate and he was happy to have it. We finished our evening snack and said bye to the bouncing bubble boy. We took a walk to see what all stalls are there. From there we came back to the main town square and searched for a ATM. There was one SBI ATM there which was working at times but not for all. We thought of giving a try and luckily it worked for us. We retrieved the cash necessary to spend for next few days and then returned to our hotel. Our hotel owner was surprised to see us utilizing the complete day on travelling and motorcycle. As per him most people that come here take one day to rest from earlier day’s journey. There we were, two people roaming around in Sikkimi mountains till the day ends. He asked us about what all places we could cover. He said it was a good idea to visit Rabdentse Ruins in early morning. Then he guided us on our next day’s rout to Gangtok and took our dinner’s order. We went up to our room, got freshen up and returned down at dining hall. Had our favorite steamy Rohu fish curry and rice accompanied by an Omlet and hot tea. Since we had lots of things for next day, we packed all our things and kept the luggage ready. By 8:30 PM we crashed in to bed.

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